The Timeless Beauty of Bagan
“There are experiences of landscape that will always resist articulation, and of which words offer only a remote echo.”
– Robert Macfarlane –
I gawk at the faded murals, and feel a wild gallop in my chest. They are exquisite. As I lean in to study them, marveling at the fact that they are still here, after centuries of time seeping through them, the caretaker of the temple is lying on his back, in the middle of the floor with his eyes focused on the screen of his smart phone. The movie he is watching is as enchanting to him, as the murals are too me. What each one of us take for granted, the other embrace as something to be treasured. I am glad he is not in a hurry, as I dawdle, reluctant to leave this cavern of timeless beauty.
Back outside, I blink in the harsh light, and offer the giver of this special gift some money. He shakes his head. I frown, as hardly anyone ever declines a tip. Taken aback I insist, as I know that in some cultures it is obligatory to decline something the first time, but he, once again, decline with a smile and a wave, before he turns back towards his house nestling close to the temple.
The Winido Temple dates from the 13th century, and its faded murals include paintings of Jatakas, which is a collection of some 550 moral tales, describing the many reincarnations of Prince Siddhartha before he achieved enlightenment as the Buddha, as well as a footprint of the Buddha on the ceiling of the vault.
I have long dreamed of visiting Bagan. Images of pagodas, stupas and temples scattered across a flat landscape, with mist hovering low in the translucent light of twilight, have captured my imagination like so many before me. It is during sunrise and sunset that Bagan enchants one the most, but after a small earthquake in 2016, many of the once popular temples for watching sunrises and sunsets, are now closed to the public, as it has become too dangerous too climb. The government has started building berm-like viewing platforms, mostly oriented towards the sunset, but they are equally lovely for sunrises, as they give one a completely different sense of place, and are basically deserted.
The hot-air balloons on their morning flight have become a quintessential ingredient in capturing a sunrise during the dry season, and although they are an expensive indulgence ($300), they are hugely popular, and booked out months in advance. Even when you do secure a booking, you may have to prepare for disappointment, as they only fly when the weather conditions allow for it.
“From the 9th to the 13th century, Bagan was a grand capital where kings ruled and royals built pagodas believing that the construction of these sacred places would earn them merit in the next life. They must have had a lot to make up for because they built them by the thousands – soaring cathedral-like white pyramids, giant multi-terraced red brick monuments, on down to squat car-sized buildings barely big enough in which to stand up or turn around.”
– From: Burma: A Journey Across Time by Matt Sims –
With over 2000 ancient temples scattered across a lush, bucolic landscape that consists of open plains and farmland, Bagan exudes a strange pull on the soul. None of the individual temples enchanted me in the way the Angkor temples in Cambodia did, but collectively they mesmerize and charm.
Reaching top speeds of about 35 km/hour e-bikes or electric scooters are perfect for getting around the area, although cycling is a lovely alternative, especially early in the morning, when it is not too hot. Most of the time you will drive much slower than the top speed on winding, dusty tracks, and these little marvels will transport you quietly through the landscape, so that you can appreciate the silence, and sounds of daily life, constantly advancing and retreating. Even though the major temples are busy with tourists and worshippers alike, you will find many opportunities to be all alone, so take your time to linger and explore.
If you enjoy something a bit more physical, and would love to gain insight into the place and culture, have a look at the different cycling options with a local guide Grasshopper Adventures has on offer. I was the only participant, so by default, had a private morning of cycling, stories, exploration, and eating, which was simply wonderful.
There is much more than just the temples to imprison one’s senses, so explore the outdoor morning markets, where the local women do their daily shopping.
It is best not to rush through the landscape, but to take your time to notice the smaller nuances of life, like the many clay water pots offering thirsty travelers, cool water.
My visit coincided with the first full moon after the Bhuddist Lent, which meant that hundreds of pilgrims from all over Myanmar flocked to the main temples. Bagan holds an important place in the religious life of the Burmese, and it is important to remember this when visiting.
Although it is handy to have a general idea of where you are or want to go, it is far more fun to get lost on the dust roads and trails crisscrossing the plain. You will quickly learn to recognize the main temples, and orientate yourself accordingly, and even if you try, you cannot get so lost that you won’t be able to find your way back to one of the main roads.
Hotel accommodation in Bagan, especially in Old Bagan, can be quite expensive. I decided to splurge, while visiting Inle Lake, so settled for a small hotel in New Bagan. I loved the slight dilapidated feel of the Thurizza Hotel, where I stayed, although the bathroom was new, and the room large, light and spotlessly clean. The terrace at the top was a fantastic spot to bathe in the soft glow of sunset, best enjoyed with an ice-cold beer, while watching the swallows flit through the air. There are various small stupas in the area, so don’t think you have to be staying in Old Bagan to have that right on your doorstep.
I loved my stay in New Bagan, where the locals, who used to live in Old Bagan, have been resettled to, as the streets, apart from the main roads, are quiet and often deserted. Nyang U, where one finds most of the hotels and restaurants, is busy and congested, in comparison.
No matter where you decide to stay, though, make sure you spend time to watch life flow by over an ice-cold bottle of Mandalay or Myanmar beer. My favourite spot was under a tree at Bagan Kitchen on the main road (Kayay Street) passing through New Bagan, and although it was rather noisy, the beer was cold, the food good value for money, local and excellent, and the rhythm of life rushing past, intriguing.
There are many different ways to get to Bagan, and although I flew to Heho from Nyaung U, I chose to travel by boat from Mandalay to Bagan. Floating down the Irrawady on board the Panorama, was lovely. The trip included an excellent breakfast and lunch, as well as a short excursion to a local village along the way. Online booking was extremely easy.
Entrance to the Bagan Archaelogical Zone is 25,000 Kyat, and is valid for 5 days. It was easy to obtain, as my taxi driver simply stopped at the kiosk on the way to the hotel, and I didn’t even have to get out of the car.
Visited: November 2017
What a wonderful trip and beautiful photos.
Thank you, so much. It was indeed wonderful. Bagan is such a special place.
That was quite an interesting adventure. So much to take in. Thanks for sharing.
I had such a struggle to decide which photographs to choose. It is a place that can easily overwhelm the senses.
Yes, I can see that clearly.
Beautiful and serene, writing and images.
Ah, thanks so much. It really is as wonderful as the images suggest.
Thank you for transporting me to a place I am unlikely to visit, with your exquisite descriptions and photos.
Best,
Tanja
So glad I could take you to Bagan. It is a very special place.
talk about a sensory overload of wonder!!!!
Indeed, Julie. There is so much to take in.
Thanks Jolandi 😍
Again, your post and photos are stunning. I love grabbing a cup of tea, sitting in silence to read your posts and enjoy every single photo. Thank you for taking us along.
Thank you, Terri. I had to remind myself to pack my camera away at times, as it is so tempting to try and capture every moment, instead of experiencing the place without always looking through that viewfinder.
I understand that completely. Capturing the moments is hard to resist. I love your photos and appreciate you sharing them all.
Such an interesting post. Now I want to go there.
You will not be disappointed, Coral. Put it on that bucket list. 🙂
Wat een prachtige informatieve post
So glad you found it informative. It was wonderful reliving the experience by writing about it.
Your photos and stories weave together seamlessly. I hope that you have some more stories from this journey for us readers at home!
Thank you, Sabine. I think there are two more coming. 🙂
Beautiful photos!
Thank you, Clare.
Enchanting countryside. Thanks for giving me an insight into this area.
It was indeed an enchanting place to visit.
Looks as magical as I imagined it. Funnily, I must say my favorite photo is the stack of straw hats 😛
That is so funny, Lani. I love those hats so much, I brought one back with me!
Cool! Great minds think alike!
I couldn’t have said it better myself. 😉
The photos I’ve seen of Bagan (yours included) very strongly pull me there also. I’m going to need a very long trip, or enough money for multiple trips, to see all I want to see in this part of the world! Right now, both are lacking, so I appreciate the second-hand view.
I know that feeling of being drawn to a place just too well, Lex! In my case it is Peru, but time and money have been stumbling blocks have not been able to overcome. I hope that, one day, we both will get to where we feel so drawn to.
We are (again) on the same wavelength. I was very attracted to Peru, and I was right – I went first in 2007 and then immediately went back three times before the end of ’08!
Mmmm . . . Wouldn’t it be lovely if we, one day, find our feet walking the same footpath in real time? I am sure we will have plenty to talk about.
Stunning visuals!
Bagan is just so photogenic, Dahlia.
Un magnífico reportaje, como siempre. Saludos cordiales.
Muchas gracias, Antonio.
There’s a mystical quality to the sunrises, Jolandi. Such beautiful photos! 🙂 🙂 I’d love to be in a balloon!
I agree with you. These sunrises speak to the soul. I would also have loved to see the landscape from the air, but all the balloon rides were fully booked when I contacted them 3 months in advance. On the other hand, it was a good thing, as they did not fly on the morning I wanted to book. Sometimes some things are simply not meant to be. Have you ever done a hot-air balloon ride, Jo?
Only a tethered one, in Krakow, and that was quite exciting. 🙂 🙂 I went to the Bristol Balloon Fest a few years ago and that was fantastic, but I didn’t get a ride 😦
Maybe, one day, both of us will get a chance to soar high above a breathtaking landscape!
Preferably not today. It’s pouring with rain here 🙂 🙂
🙂 Stay dry, Jo!
You have some really awesome images in here, Jolandi. I like the boys with the shaved head in their robes and the sun rising/setting. The stack of hats is also pretty cool. Cheers!
Thanks, Chris. It is a wonderful place to travel to, as it as endless photo opportunities.
This is an amazing trip! Thanks for sharing it. Great pics.
It was. Myanmar is such a wonderful country to visit.
Wonderful Jolandi, thanks for sharing!!!
Thank you, Paulo.
Gorgeous photos and words, both make me want to jump on a plane to Yangon tomorrow.
Thank you! Myanmar is a country I will not hesitate to return to. There is so much more to explore.
I want to go! This has been on my list for many years. Thanks for sharing!
It was on my list too for a very long time, so I hope you will get there too sometime soon. It is as wonderful as the photographs suggest.
Awesome
Magnificent! Thank you for the tour, the photos as stunning! I will add Myanmar on top of my list – one day🙂
Thank you, Christie. Myanmar will not disappoint. Hope you get there one day!
I’m just now savouring your Myanmar posts. How long did you have in the country?
Unfortunately not long enough, Peggy. It was a very brief 12 day trip, so I really just did the usual tourist circuit. If I ever have a chance, I will not hesitate to go back, but that said, with so many places in this world to visit, I’m not sure that will ever happen. My time there was very special, though.
Amazing shots, takes me right back there!
Thank you, Christina. You have a lovely blog. I will definitely spend some time on it, as I am sure you are living quite an interesting life in China.
When I visited one of the least popular temples in Bagan, the caretaker who had opened the temple’s lock for a German couple who happened to be there around the same time with me and my friend also refused the money I gave him. With a big smile he convinced us that he wasn’t really after our money. And that was not the only kindness I encountered during my trip to Bagan three years ago. Glad to know that many things seem to have not changed.
It is indeed good to know that some things stay the same! I adored my time there. I recently had a lovely browse through your Yogjakarta posts, as I will be there for two weeks at the end of the month. They gave me a lovely sense of place. Really looking forward to my first introduction to Indonesia.
How exciting! Yogyakarta is one of my favorite places on Java. It has magnificent ancient temples, interesting cultural sights, and great outdoors. However, do expect some congestion on its main streets during the weekend as it is one of the most popular travel destinations among Indonesians. Oh and don’t forget to try the local food! Gudeg is a must. Have a great time!
Thank you, Bama. Your advice is much appreciated. I will hang around my accommodation just outside of town surrounded by rice paddies over the weekend to avoid the crowds. Although, as a traveler, I understand that I have to share spaces, I do gravitate towards quieter nooks and crannies!
Pagan is indeed disarticulated and I’m not sure about all the “corrective” work on towers. We stayed at the hotel which is inside the archeological site and has a tower much higher than any of the temples and watched the sun set from there. Although I don’t approve of it (Areum?), the infinity pool with the ruins beyond was an amazing experience. Now, I am boycotting Myanmar, but glad that I went there between when it was preventing visitors and the genocide that led to me now boycotting it.
I hear you. Travelling is not just about seeing places, it is also about how we engage with our value system while experiencing these places. And that is why I love to travel – to grow and change through my interaction with a culture, but also the lessons I learn through the choices I make. The current situation in Myanmar is not just appalling, but heartbreaking.