NamibRand – A Layered Landscape
“When I choose the overview, I miss most of the details. When I go closer to observe details, I lose sight of the whole.”
– Freeman Patterson –
The machine gun fire k-k-k-k-k sound of the barking gecko bursts from the silence around me. My heart skips a beat, and I pull the blanket tighter around me. I wonder what animals move around in the darkness without me hearing or seeing them. A shiver runs down my spine. I fill my lungs with a deep gulp of fresh air, and turn my gaze back to the heavens.
The clarity of the air, the fact that there is virtually no light pollution, the total absence of any aircraft flying over the reserve at night, the low humidity, and the absence of clouds make the sky above NamibRand Nature Reserve a perfect place for astro-photographers or ordinary lovers of night skies.
Staring at the sky that inspired the myths and legends of the “First People” clans who tell stories of the sun, moon, stars and galaxies, it is clear why the Milky Way is called what it is. In the 30 minutes I’ve spent looking at the millions of blinking stars, I’ve counted five shooting stars, and wished upon each and every one of them. One can see seven of the eight planets with the naked eye here, and even experience the Gegenschein (a faint brightening of the zodiacal light overhead at midnight), when the conditions are right, which apparently is quite often. But as I’m not a knowledgable sky watcher, I simply relax into the breathtaking beauty of the night sky I don’t often get to experience.
When the stars start to fade, I unwrap myself to fetch coffee and rusks, before returning to the generous porch to watch the day break.
NamibRand, at 275, 000 hectares and growing, is one of the biggest private Nature Reserves in Southern Africa. Its story started when the late Johann-Albrecht (Albi) Brückner bought the farm Gorasis in 1984 at a bankruptcy auction, when the droughts of the early 1980s were devastating for the farmers who farmed on the edge of the Namib Desert. As more land became available, he continued to purchase adjoining farms until he owned 120,000 hectares. Here he farmed with Nguni cattle and Damara sheep, both indigenous breeds, until another drought in the late 1980s made him abandon farming altogether. It was then that the idea of a privately owned and managed nature conservation area came to him, and NamibRand was born.
Today NamibRand maintains a conservation policy based on minimal interference with constant monitoring, while one of their successes includes the taking down of fences between them and the Namib-Naukluft Park, creating a bigger area for wildlife to roam freely.
As the crow flies, NamibRand is only 48 km from the ocean, and as a result benefits from the sea fog, even though it lies on the extremity of the sea fog’s eastern penetration. Rainfall here is low and erratic. Summer temperatures can reach highs of 48°C, while freezing winter nights can drop to -11°C. It is a harsh climate for both animal and plant life.
The Oryx or gemsbok is well adapted to this landscape, and most probably the animal one spots most often on a trip through Namibia. Although their body temperature can reach over 40°C, their brains remain much cooler, as blood is pumped through cooler vessels around their nose, while breathing rapidly (up to 210 times per minute). Their high body temperature means that almost no water is lost through sweating, and as water sources are scare, they obtain most of their water requirements from their food intake.
Acacia or camelthorn trees have taproots twice as long as their height, as they are reliant on underground water and not rain. Hence they are indicative of water sources and are often found in clumps or belts. The most famous of these are perhaps the remains of those in Deadvlei, which dates back to around 600 years, but have not rotted away as a direct result of the extreme dryness of the area. The age of acacia trees can be determined by measuring their diameter, as every 40 centimetres indicate 50 years of growth.
NamibRand’s landscape is layered with mountains, red dunes, and gravel plains, which can consist of sand or gravel, or a mix of the two. It is a landscape that offers a succession of breathtaking vistas, and is best explored in the soft morning or evening light.
In the afternoon, during the summer months, the westerly to north-westerly plain-to-mountain winds blew strongly, but thanks to the generous porch that wraps around two sides of the house, we could watch the animals enjoying a drink at the nearby water hole. Springbok, oryx, and even a secretary bird paid us a visit, while we also spotted a Pale Chanting Goshawk who made himself comfortable in a nearby tree. A small water bath in the shade of an acacia tree is a rowdy gathering point for the prolific bird life, their calls punctuating whole paragraphs of silence.
And as the heat of the day shimmered on the horizon the only other sound we could hear was that of the wind picking up speed over the flat landscape, chasing up dust clouds.
To Stay:
This renovated farmhouse is completely off-grid, yet lacks nothing in comfort.
To fully enjoy the park one should book one of the drives or walks on offer. Andrew, our guide during our visit, was a fount of information, and added another layer of enjoyment to our time there. We stayed 3 nights, which was perfect to unwind and enjoy the surroundings. Booking early is advised to avoid disappointment.
Orion, Venus and Jupiter are all secluded camping spots with a wooden bathroom/kitchen building. Jupiter, their newest addition, is wheelchair friendly.
If you have more money to splurge, staying in one of the upmarket lodges in NamibRand, but closer to Sossusvlei, is an option.
**** If you enjoy hiking you should include the Tok Tokkie Trail (a 2 night / 3 day hike with three-course dinners and a canopy of stars as your tent) in your visit.
**** There are special rates for citizens and permanent residents of the SADC countries.
**** If you’ve always dreamed of seeing the desert from the air, sign up for a hot-air balloon ride with Namib Sky Balloon Safaris.
Notes:
# Until recently NamibRand, a Dark Skies Reserve since 2012, was the only place on the African continent that managed to successfully apply for Dark Skies status. They were joined by the !Ae !Hai Kalahari Heritage Park in South Africa, which forms part of the greater Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park earlier this year, when it was designated as a Dark Skies Sanctuary.
# The International Dark Sky Association has a very interesting website, which is worth checking out if you are interested in the negative effects of light pollution not only on the environment, but us as well.
# The best time for spotting shooting stars is after midnight, when their activity increase, as well as on those nights when the Earth passes through the orbit of a comet. The best known meteor showers are: Eta Aquarids (21 April – 12 May), Perseids (17 August – 24 August), Orionids (2 October -21 November), Leonids (10-23 November), and Geminids (7-17 December).
# NamibRand is a great place to see Fairy Circles, barren circular patches found all along the eastern edge of the Namib Desert (stretching from the northwestern Cape in South Africa, through Namibia, and into Southern Angola). They have fascinated tourists and scientists alike, and although many theories exist (from ants to leakage of hydrocarbon gases, to meteor showers and animal dust baths), they remain mysterious and enigmatic, as nature is still guarding her secret.
To Read:
# The Old Way – Elizabeth Marshall Thomas
# A Guidebook to the NamibRand Nature Reserve (available for purchase from one of the guides in NamibRand – N$ 400)
Visited: February 2019
## Click on any image to enlarge.
Stunning!
Absolutely stunning … particularly love this: “The clarity of the air, the fact that there is virtually no light pollution, the total absence of any aircraft flying over the reserve at night, the low humidity, and the absence of clouds ….”
There is a strong familiarity of the region you write about with that of the outback here in Australia … in terms of the land, the vegetation, if not the wildlife … great description of the climate and the impression the sea fog makes.
The nature reserve should serve as an inspiration for other countries to follow. In a world becoming more and more at risk due to development it is worth remembering sometimes “it is what it is” … and that is the beauty of things. As you say, just look up at the stars … that way we realise what part we play in the being of things.
It is definitely a challenge to balance preservation with development, hence I am so grateful for the existence of places like NamibRand. I love how landscapes can remind us of others. The Australian outback must be a vast and interesting place to explore.
happy you survived the wilds
of this beautiful desert
and brought back such
wonderfully poetic imagery 🙂
🙂
What a fabulous place. The photos are stunning. Wish I could go tomorrow.
I think you and John would love it, Peggy. Have you guys been to Namibia in one of your many African adventures?
We were there in 2009. That’s where we went skydiving.
Wow, skydiving! Hats off to you. I’m not nearly that brave. 🙂
I love all the colors and contrasts. I bet you took thousands of photos. I would have! 😊
Thank you, Tanja. Not quite thousands, but a good many. 😉
I know how it goes!
Lovely photos.
Absolutely stunning … particularly love this: “The clarity of the air, the fact that there is virtually no light pollution, the total absence of any aircraft flying over the reserve at night, the low humidity, and the absence of clouds ….”
There is a strong familiarity of the region you write about with that of the outback here in Australia … in terms of the land, the vegetation, if not the wildlife … great description of the climate and the impression the sea fog makes.
The nature reserve should serve as an inspiration for other countries to follow. In a world becoming more and more at risk due to development it is worth remembering sometimes “it is what it is” … and that is the beauty of things. As you say, just look up at the stars … that way we realise what part we play in the being of things.
Thanks, Coral.
I’ve been very interested in visiting Namibia since a few months ago when this southern African country changed its immigration policy which now allows Indonesians to go there without a visa. I read about Sossusvlei, as well as the Namib-Naukluft National Park. But I had never heard of NamibRand until today. I will certainly consider staying here for dark skies is something I’ve always wanted to see for a long time. Thanks for sharing your story!
I’m so glad you can now visit Namibia without a visa, Bama. As a South African I completely get your visa woes. I tend to gravitate towards those places where I either don’t need a visa, or it is a pain free process.
Namibia has many wonderful places to visit, but I don’t think many people have heard of NamibRand. It was a wonderful and unexpected discovery. You will love it. Just make sure you book in advance, and try to spend at least two nights (if not more) there. And if you can, book when the night sky is at its darkest.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Incredibly beautiful!
Thank you, Sabine. I love photographing the desert.
Jolandi you’re really whetting my appetite for Namibia… must seriously consider it. It’s a country that seems so daunting and huge but I’ve to say that your travelogue of its southern edge is really making it compelling. I suppose a 4WD is a must, right?
It is not as daunting as you may think, Fabrizio. A 4WD is not a must at all, although it does allow you access to more places. All the most popular places can be reached by normal sedan car, and wherever that is not possible there are always either transport or tours available. If you love road trips and camping, Namibia is the perfect destination.
What a beautiful place! Your photos are gorgeous, Jolandi.
Thank you, Clare. It is one of the most beautiful spots I’ve ever visited.
Hard to pick a favourite shot! They’re all gorgeous.
Thank you. It was difficult for me to thin them out for the post. It is such a photogenic landscape.
Your usual fine prose combines here with magnificent photos; the one of the oryx in shadow could almost be a painting, and the close-up of the gritty ground is calling out to my itchy feet! What a truly gorgeous place.
Barefoot in the dunes is the best, Lexie. I think your itchy feet will adore Namibia.
AUH-mazing. I tell you this all the time, but I’m guessing you are probably not sick of hearing it, you’re writing is so poetic. I’m right there with you star-gazing. Lush photos. Love the animals, the desert landscape, the experience sounds wonderful. I could use that now. Hahahaha. I feel like everyone is on holiday but me. Ah, well. Patience.
Thank you, Lani. Nope, definitely not sick of hearing it. 😉 That’s the problem with reading travel blogs. Everyone always seems to be enjoying themselves in a beautiful part of the world, while you sit at home. Or more accurately slaving away at your job. Hope you get to pack your suitcase soon for a bit of travelling!
Some terrific shots in here, and evocative writing. I particularly like the high contrast shots, the critters, and some of the dune shots. But no star pics?
Thanks for the compliment, Dave. Unfortunately I shoot with a Canon PowerShot SX60HS. It is a great camera for a non-photographer like me, but not made for night shooting, so instead of fiddling around to, at best, get mediocre shots, I just enjoyed the moment.
Ohh, simply marvellous. Only you, the desert and fairy dust. 🙂 And gorgeous images.
Indeed, Manja. 🙂 And, thank you.
Love this post and your gorgeous photos. We did an unforgettable 3 day trek/camping trip in NamibRand. The landscape is among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen, and the night sky…wow!
How wonderful that you got to do the Tok Tokkie Trail, Caroline. I so wanted to do that, but as it was not hiking season during my visit, just being there was a good second prize. I have never seen a night sky quite like the one there. Like you say . . . wow!
Thanks for reading my old post. It was early days of blogging for me. I really should add some more Namibia posts as the landscapes never get stale. If Tok Tokkie is still as good as it was 10 years ago you should definitely try and go.
I agree that the Namibian landscapes never get stale. The Tok Tokkie Trail is most certainly on my bucket list. The problem is just that the list gets longer and longer almost every week, instead of shorter. 😉 I love looking back at older posts, especially when I am researching a place, or have been to one. It is interesting to see how different we all see and experience a place, as well as the similarities, on those occasions they happen to occur.
Awesome photography and nice article. love to read your new articles.
Thank you, Naveen. Glad to hear you are enjoying them.
Your words and images have transported me back to this tranquil space and I am grateful for the opportunity.
It must seem a world away from where you are at the moment, so glad I could, Lisa.
Wow! Amazing images and information. 🙂
Thank you. It is such a photogenic landscape.
Thank you for this beautiful post. I’ve considered visiting this country and you may have just tipped the scales for me. Beautiful photos.
I am so glad you enjoyed the post. Namibia is a country that leaves one breathless, and when I look at your photographs, I am convinced that you will be charmed by it.
In love with this place with the description you gave.
Thank you. It is a magical space.
Jolandi, so many months behind on my emails, but so glad I had not deleted this. What a fascinating insight. It’s not that long since I read H is for Hawk, and so felt particularly drawn to your Goshawk, but of course, all your photographs are divine, as always. Thanks for opening my eyes to this unique area.
Thanks, Gwen. Michael also recently read H is for Hawk and loved it. Namibia is one of my all-time favourite countries – I love those wide open arid spaces, and how it can make you feel as if your whole being has extra breathing space.
I have to confess, Namibia would never have been on my radar until you wrote about it in such eloquent terms. . . I watched an interesting movie the other night – practically a documentary – called Pili, and set in Tanzania. That was another eye-opener. https://www.flickfilosopher.com/2018/10/pili-movie-review-trials-women-many-universal.html
Thanks for that link, Gwen. I’m definitely going to check it out. And I’m so glad I could introduce you to Namibia. It is full of surprises and very different from most places I’ve ever visited.
love these shots. Very beautiful is look at
Thank you, Zanki.
Lovely captures! Your beautiful pics make me wish I was right there.
Thank you, Kally. It is a place that brings joy to the soul.