In The Land of Fire
“Travel teaches us about the vast and varied differences that enrich the global mosaic, in landscape, creation, custom, and belief, and about the importance of each and every piece in that mosaic.”
– Don George –
Mr Wannabe Racing Driver guns the engine of his little purple Lada, which skids across the gravel track to cut off it’s white twin to our right.
Laughter bubbles from his belly as he turns around to look me in the eyes. “You like?”
My throat is too dry to respond, and he must have taken the wild look in my eyes as a definitive yes, as I can feel the little car accelerating.
He glances back at the road, and gives a hearty laugh. “My momma doesn’t like.”
“Neither do I.” I croak.
He either doesn’t hear me, or chooses not to. He is jovial, and clearly finds enjoyment in showcasing the off-road capabilities of his car, and driving skills. I, on the other hand, can see the remnants of my life as it is speeding past me. Sandwiched into the middle of the backseat I have a clear view of the landscape in front of me. The initial dirt road splits into tracks mimicking the antics of the drivers as they crisscross one another over the flat, bleak landscape. In another attempt to slow him down I tell him that I am a grandmother, and racing like this in a country I hardly know, let alone want to die in, is not exactly my idea of fun. He laughs a laugh of deep enjoyment, and in response tells me that he has three children and has just turned 30. I want to point out that he should perhaps think about his family and slow down, but he has moved his attention to the two young German men, who appears to be having a much better time than me, interrogating them on their marital status.
“How far still?” I mumble to myself, as I am uncertain of what effect the rush of adrenaline, I usually manage to avoid, will do to me.
Michael places a reassuring hand on my leg. My brain cannot figure out if he shares my fear, or is secretly enjoying this mad ride, but before I can voice any more objections, we come to a screeching halt.
“We certainly won.” I manage to whisper under my breath, as I step outside with shaking legs, and wobble to where a motley collection of mud volcanoes bubble and gurgle, oblivious of the wild ride that brought me to them.
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Notes:
# Azerbaijan has the largest concentration of mud volcanoes in the world, consisting of around 400, and Gobustan National Park, 64 kilometres from Baku is a great place to view some of them. It is also home to interesting petroglyphs, which form part of the itinerary of one of the day tours on offer from a variety of tour companies operating out of the old city. A typical day trip like this will further include Ateshgah Fire Temple, Yanardag Fire Mountain, Bibi Heybat Mosque, and the site of the first oil well. The cost is around 90 AZN (Manat) per person, and includes a hearty traditional lunch. The tour companies also offer day trips and multi day trips to other parts of the country. Note that the companies you will find on the Internet have hugely inflated prices and are typically private ones, while the ones offering group tours will actually find you if you take a walk through the old city.
# Take a en empty water bottle with to fill with mud from one of the mud volcanoes, as it is reputed to be excellent for softening wrinkles, and curing aching joints. 😉
# The best way to explore the city is to walk, but an absolute must is to sign up for a walking tour with Azerbaijan Traveller to discover the layers and layers of stories that make up this fascinating city and country, where East and West meet. Gani is an expert storyteller, and the experience will enrich your stay more than anything else will. Note that they have different walking tours available, so see if you can do them all, as they all focus on something different. Apart from Lisbon, this is my new favourite city. (And then of course there is Rio, but that is a city defying comparison.)
# Visit the Carpet Museum, as it gives a wonderful glimpse into the beauty and history of local carpets. (Baku has a variety of museums, but unfortunately almost all of them were closed for restoration work during our visit.)
# For the best coffee in town, visit United Coffee Beans.
# Taste the local beer – Xirdalan. It is best enjoyed in one of the many restaurants that line Fountain Square, where one can people watch and enjoy the cooling breeze of the ever-present wind on a hot summer’s day.
# Pick up a local sim card from Azercell in Fountain Square. 20 AZN will get you 5GB of data and free local calls.
# For excursions outside the compact city centre, download the taxi app Yandex.
# Be aware that a taxi ride from the airport will set you back 50 AZN, so book with a hotel which includes a pick-up. For the ride back to the airport, we organized a drop-off through the hotel, and it cost us only 20 AZN, which included a tip.
# For the best croissants and desserts in town, visit Entrée.
# One of the best vegetarian burgers I’ve ever had, I found at Barista & Chef, a cozy, funky eatery.
# Visit the many wine bars to get a taste of the local wine. We loved Enoteca Meydan, where sommellier and co-owner, Teymur not only introduced us to a variety of wines, but also gave us a taste of some excellent locally produced cheeses.
Our favourite spot, which we revisited a couple of times, is Kefli. Not only do they stock an extensive range of wines (all local), but the food is excellent too. It is small and gets packed in the evening, so either book or come in the late afternoon, when they just open and it is quiet. We loved our chats with owner, Ivan, as his enthusiasm for the local wine industry is infectious.
# Take a ride on the Metro for a flashback to when Azerbaijan formed part of the old Soviet Union. Rides are only 0.30 AZN, and the metro card is the same one you will need if you want to make use of the buses. We used it to get from the old town to the Heydar Aliyev Centre, which is one of those iconic buildings one cannot miss visiting, when in Baku.
# We loved our stay at the Two Seasons Boutique Hotel in the heart of the old city with its friendly staff. It was a quiet spot with no passing traffic, and included breakfast and an airport pick-up. The perfect place from where to explore all the city has to offer on foot.
# Apply for an eVisa before the time. It is easy and effortless.
# One should be aware that Azerbaijan and Armenia are actually at war with one another over the disputed Nagorno-Karabakh region, and if you are planning to visit that region you will not be allowed entry into Azerbaijan (a fact that is clearly stated on the eVisa application). This does not include the rest of Armenia, though. Most travellers, when visiting Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia travel either by plane or train between Azerbaijan and Georgia, as there are no direct travel links between Azerbaijan and Armenia. A traveller we met, who flew from Tbilisi to Baku did not have any problems, but two other travellers who took the train told us that the Azerbaijani border guards ripped the labels off the bottles of Armenian wine/produce they had with them, perhaps to demonstrate their displeasure with the fact that they visited Armenia.
TO READ:
Ali and Nino by Kurban Said
(Or you can watch the 2016 movie with the same name, but books are always better than movies.)
WATCH:
Baku: City of Ali and Nino for a glimpse into this fascinating city and its history.
Visited: July 2019
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Remember to hop over to our blog chronicling our adventure of our quest to live closer to the land in Portugal, a dream that is slowly unfolding, while we still live and work in the United Arab Emirates.
So glad you made it to Azerbaijan. We loved it too. Great pics.
Thanks, Peggy. It was such a lovely surprise, especially escaping the terrible summer heat in Abu Dhabi and being able to sit around in cafes enjoying a glass of wine or a cold beer. Bliss.
Enjoying your other blog. Tried to leave a comment, but don’t think it stuck.
Glad you are. Sorry the comment didn’t stick. We just came back from another visit, so there will be updates soon once I’ve sifted through the photos and video snippets.
Wonderful pictures Jolandi!!!
Thank you, Paulo. It is quite a photogenic city.
Hi praise indeed, to say this is your favourite city after Lisbon.Thanks for this introduction to Baku, a city I’m not particularly familiar with. How long were you there?
I spent a total of nine days there. Four solo and five with my husband. It was a great way to escape the suffocating heat of the UAE, and as it is less than three hours away by plane, it was a great way to have a quick break without breaking the bank. I won’t hesitate to return, although I would love to explore Georgia and Armenia next, as I think the Caucasus is a beautiful and interesting part of the world.
I don’t remember when exactly was the first time I got interested in visiting Azerbaijan — it could’ve been one of Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond movies, or some articles I read on a local newspaper here in Indonesia — but it’s been on my wishlist for quite some time now. Since a few years ago Indonesians no longer need to get a visa in advance to go to this country. Your post reminds me why I should really plan a trip there.
I think you would love the country, Bama. There is so much history, and the stories and people are wonderful. Exactly your cup of tea. And not needing a visa is fantastic. I’m forever looking for those places where it is easy for me to get a visa, or is visa-free.
I was trying to figure out where you might be with such a driver, and I know it could have been anywhere from NYC to Athens to some random little town anywhere … but it did not surprise me to learn where you actually were! I have told countless drivers to slow down or to pay attention or, in two horrible instances, to WAKE UP! I am not a good passenger, and yet I like so much to be shown a brand new place by a local.
I am so eager to get to the countries in that part of the world. Love all your tips and hope to use them someday!
Yip, I guess these types of rides are inevitable, when one travels, Lexie. I can recall another couple which I definitely prefer to forget, but I guess these will always be deeply ingrained in my memory for their sheer terror. Not exactly the type of experience I craved on this trip (not that I ever crave them, as I get no pleasure from an adrenaline rush). It was supposed to be a lazy escape from the stifling summer heat in the UAE. Well, truth be told, I managed to counteract any lasting damage with copious amounts of idle hours, sipping good local wine . . . 😉
I’ve been wanting to go hiking in Georgia and/or Armenia for a while now. There is a group busy building a hiking trail that would link the national parks of these two countries. Not sure you are aware of it. (https://transcaucasiantrail.org/en/home/) They have some volunteer opportunities to help build the trail, which I think is great, and then a couple of group hikes each year. With focusing our time, energy and resources on Portugal at the moment this will have to be put on the back burner for now.
I’ll check out that link – right up my alley!
I also saw that tiny sentence about being a grandmother … seems impossible based on your youthful looks! I’m eager to be one someday!
Haha! I also celebrate a big birthday this year, but in the bigger scheme of things, I guess 50 isn’t that old, although I have to admit that I have some trouble coming to terms with it. 😉 I don’t actually have children of my own, Lexie, but Michael’s daughter is like a daughter to me, and I feel lucky that I can be a grandmother without having raised a child. She was a little unexpected gift last year . . . After a fair amount of emotional upheaval we have all come to terms with it, and we are grateful that it has all worked out perfectly for everyone.
I thought so!
Gorgeous photos, Jolandi!
Thank you, Clare. It is a lovely city.
It was great to be a part of this “ride” 🙂
Your writing and amazing photos make me feel as if I am also there. Thank you for sharing and hope both of you are continuing to do well.
Glad I could share my terror with you, Takami. 🙂
We are well. I need to start sifting through photographs and video clips to report back on our latest experiences in Portugal.
You’re piquing my interest in this part of the world!
I’m glad I could do that, Lani. I was wonderfully surprised by it, especially as I didn’t know what to expect. I now want to explore more in the area.
PS What a roller coaster you’ve been on emotionally. Your last Tiny Letter was like a punch in the stomach. We are never prepared for these moments in life.
Great pictures!
Kind regards,
Thanks, Rob.
This is an exceptional post. I’m so glad that you’ve found a new favourite city. Some of your photos are amazing, especially the ones of doors (but of course). 🙂 And the green fountain! And the painted ladies, and the pigeon!! The architecture is fascinating. I can tell what a great time you had.
Ah, thank you, Manja. Yes, like you can tell, I had a fantastic time. And there were so many lovely things to photograph. Including those doors, which I know you have a special love for too. 🙂
I wonder if the pigeon was reincarnated from a stylish lady who had the misfortune to ride with a crazy driver….
Now that is one version I did not think of. 🙂 Entirely possible, Dave.
Wow, I had no idea such modern architecture existed in Azerbaijan! I love your excursions into these unknown lands to me and all the thrilling geology you always unveil. The bubbling mud volcanoes sound as wild as your car journey there.
Azerbaijan was the first country to exploit its rich oil reserves, which also today provides the money with which these modern buildings are being built. There is a wonderful juxtaposition between old and new, which for me is half the charm of Baku. The stories and history of this country is so layered and rich, Atreyee that I didn’t feel qualified to even attempt an explanation or introduction, hence just a tale of a wild ride and some practical information. It is a country that completely surprised me.
I tried ‘swimming’ in a mud volcano on Borneo… Didn’t do anything for my complexion!! You certainly put Azerbaijan on the map for me. Awesome photographs.
Lieve
Hahaha! Perhaps it is because you only tried it once, Lieve. I brought my little bottle of volcano mud back with me, and have a mud mask twice a week. Not sure if it is my imagination, dim lighting or failing eyesight, but I think there is an improvement in my complexion, if not a slight lessening of wrinkles. 😉
Yes, I only tried it once…
Good pictures (as usual…)
Thank you, Alex.
I am glad you and your husband found another piece to add to your ever-growing mosaic of visited places, especially since you have ranked it so high on your list of favorites. And I am glad you survived the trip so you could tell the story. 😊
Best wishes,
Tanja
Me too, Tanja. My body and mind do not do so well with too much adrenaline rushing through it. 🙂 I love discovering places I had no preconceived ideas about, which is becoming harder in a world flooded with images and stories of the different corners of the world. And it is always a special gift when my husband has time to join me on an adventure.
Love the review! Will read Ali and Nino for sure!
Thank you, Sarah. It is a very insightful read.
Beautifully written introduction. Taken from the pages of a great travel novel ~ “where a motley collection of mud volcanoes bubble and gurgle, oblivious of the wild ride that brought me to them…” yes, Jolandi, you indeed won 🙂 Such is the magnificent experience of travel and the Don George quote explains the importance of travel, it teaches and if we learn and are open to the new world/culture laid out before us, the experience enriches the global mosaic. You write this so well. Your photography adds the experience and your descriptions, and one day I too wish to experience something similar in the Land of Fire. Cheers ~
Thank you, Randall. I hope you will have as much fun as I did in the Land of Fire when you manage to find your way there. There are so many layers of history, and I’m quite sure that the stories will charm you. I have to admit that I am rather charmed by that part of the world and would love to go back to visit Georgia and Armenia.
The history there must be amazing to see and dive into first hand ~ being immersed in the culture is a type of learning unmatched. Thank you, Jolandi.
Hi How are you? Nice to read your post about Azerbaijan. Hope to see you next time we’re back in AD in December or January… Cheers!
All good on this side Evelyn. Congratulations on your new business. I guess it keeps you busy.
Traveling keeps me busy more than the business at the moment haha! Just came back from PH, check it out as I posted it recently. 🙂