Table for One: Mez Karoo Kitchen and Other Barrydale Delights
“Remember the days you prayed for the things you have now.”
– Jennice Vilhauer
When I turned 48 I decided to visit Myanmar as a birthday present to myself. I spent my birthday cycling the dusty roads of Bagan, immersing myself in a place that had been on my bucket list for a very long time. My fascination with old temples took me the following year to Borobodur in Indonesia, but instead of visiting the temple on my birthday, I chose to spend it at a leather workshop in Yogjakarta making myself a pair of sandals, which felt like a double gift to myself. And so, a tradition was born to not spend the day at home, doing any of the mundane things of life, but instead visit a place where I could dream, learn, reflect and celebrate the gift of life. Alone.
As it was my father-in-law’s 80th birthday less than two weeks after my 50th birthday, it was not viable to visit another country, and so I decided on a side trip to one of my favourite parts in the country of my birth, South Africa.
My first choice was Nieu-Bethesda, a place that has stirred my heart the first time I visited it twenty years ago, but it was just too out of the way for everything I wanted to fit in. I also decided against Prince Albert, another favourite, because my previous stay there was so perfect that I didn’t want to try and repeat it. With the help of Google I found what seemed the ideal place; a farm nestling in the mountains just outside of Calitzdorp, but when the owner told me they were fully booked for the weekend I felt an intense disappointment. I wanted to stay there, so I booked the Sunday and Monday nights, and proceeded to look for somewhere else not too far away. Barrydale, a small town on Route 62, bursting with a creativity that spills over into a variety of quirky shops, restaurants and accommodation options, was a good alternative to celebrate a milestone birthday in. I’ve been there before and loved it.
* * * * *
As my body was still adjusting to the two hour difference between the UAE and South Africa, I started my birthday cuddled up in bed with coffee and a book in the very early hours of the morning. When the nightsky gave way to a burst of colour. I made a second cup of coffee, grabbed a throw to ward off the chill in the air, and my journal to watch the sun peer over the mountains, bathing the wide veranda in a glow of warmth that slowly seeped into my vitamin D deprived body. Birdsong filled the air. I could hear peacocks, roosters and guinea fowl. A dog barked. Underneath it all was a deep silence that felt ancient. I sat motionless, inhaling it with each breath, willing it to drench my soul. It is a peace I had longed for the whole summer in the brown, miserable heat of Abu Dhabi, and I didn’t want to lose it by moving, so I sat like a dassie in the sun, allowing the morning to unfold in its own timing.
Later, when the church bells chimed eight times, people started to stir. Footsteps crunched on gravel. A motorbike sputtered. Music spilled out of a window.
I stayed and watched the dust trails hanging like mist over the landscape where the gravel roads in the distance disected scattered houses and veld. I breathed deeply and opened Anam Cara. John O’Donohue’s words are filled with depth and beauty. They seemed perfect for the day, and as they need to be consumed slowly, and I lingered in the perfect moment.
* * * * *
The glow of the late afternoon sun intensified the lush green of the garden. The doors of the old house in which Mez Karoo Kitchen is housed, were flung wide open. I was greeted warmly by Michelle, the owner, and had my pick of tables, as I was the first of a constant stream of diners to arrive. My choice allowed me a view of the kitchen from where I could watch Michelle, her son, and the two kitchen staff casually, yet efficiently going through the various steps of preparing food, greeting diners, serving and chatting as they went.
Michelle has lived in Barrydale for almost 30 years. She told me that opening the restaurant a couple of years ago was a steep learning curve, as she has no formal training. I looked around me and marvelled at how her persistence and hard work has paid off. The restaurant, today, has the ambience and food that is far superior to that of most city restaurants. Small towns in South Africa can be a real challenge for a vegetarian, but she always has vegetarian options on the menu which changes all the time, making good use of seasonal produce. In the restaurant garden she grows herbs and edible flowers, as well as lettuce and tomatoes. The rest of her produce she sources in the area. She tells me that the owners of the local supermarket are a blessing for the town. Their vegetarianism and eco-friendly approach to life are reflected in the incredible variety of products and produce that is available.
I sipped on the excellent Springfield Sauvignon Blanc in between the three courses of the meal, and scribbled in my diary. I hardly ever indulge like that, but I wanted the experience to last forever, and as her portions are perfectly sized and it was a special day, I ate more than I usually do.
* * * * *
NOTES:
My choice of accommodation for this trip stood in sharp contrast with my previous visit. Karoo Moon House, a typical ‘Nagmaal huisie’ (Holy Communion House), was restored in 2018. These houses were originally built in the early 1900’s by farmers who would come to town to attend Holy Communion at the Dutch Reformed Church, hence the name. Louise Pharo filled this house, steeped in so much history, with old pieces of furniture and bric-a-brac that is in line with her quirky design style. She is also responsible for the iconic Diesel & Créme restaurant and its adjacent Motel, which she runs with her husband Arthur and son Dean.
Magazines and books are scattered throughout the house, and the kitchen is filled with thoughtful touches – Nespresso coffee capsules, milk in the fridge, as well as rusks and cookies, and a jar of sweeties on a bedside table. There are three outdoor spaces that are idealy suited for different times of the day or weather conditions, braai facilities, and a woodburning stove for cold winter nights. The kitchen has all the basics, but there are so many lovely restaurants in town that it would be sin not to at least try and visit them all.
Karoo Moon House & Cottage can be booked through various sites like Booking.com or Airbnb. The Cottage, on the same premises as the House, is located in the old ‘Waenhuis’ (garage) and is much smaller than the house.
## As I love quality handmade products that have a story to tell and benefit the local community, it is no surprise that my favourite small business in town is Barrydale Hand Weavers. On my previous trip in 2015 I bought a kitchen towel that still looks as good as new despite being used often. On this trip I bought another kitchen towel, as well as lovely bathroom towels I am planning to take to Portugal to our little house there.
## House of Books was a lovely surprise, as I’ve never seen so many wonderful second hand books under one roof.
## Ryno Reyneke from The Maker’s Brew brews fantastic artisan beer, while his wife’s pottery (Helen Vaughan Ceramics) compliment the space extremely well. To make it even more special was the delicious pizza (one of the best I’ve ever had) from the The Mystic Overlander, who struck a deal with Ryno when their van broke down in Barrydale and they decided to stay for the rest of the summer season.
## Drive the beautiful Tradeauw Pass.
Barrydale has much more than the above to offer, so don’t rush through if you are ever in the area. Stay a night or two so that you can fully appreciate the peace and creativity of the town and its surroundings.
Remember to also sign up for our adventures in Portugal, A Taste of Freedom, where we are in the process of rebuilding a ruin into a tiny house. All while we are still residing in the UAE. It is a long-term project, as we do not have unlimited resources, and only progress as fast as we can put money aside for the different steps required. We also have a Facebook page for it. So, please join us on this adventure of transforming a dream into a reality.
Visited: November 2019
Karoo Moon House & Cottage reminds me of an eco-lodge in western Bali, far from the island’s tourism hotspots, where I had one of the most memorable stays ever. There’s something very appealing about rustic accommodations with magazines and gardens. Maybe because of its resemblance with home, or any place that gives you that cozy and warm feeling.
Can you remember the name of the lodge in Bali, Bama? I completely agree with you. I am always most comfortable in those places that give me the feeling that I am home, and I spend obscene amounts of time researching accommodation options before I travel. More often than not, I am richly rewarded for the time and effort, as it makes my travel experience so much richer.
It’s called Sarinbuana Eco Lodge. I wrote a post about it in 2015, in case you’re curious: https://harindabama.com/2015/06/01/batukaru-sight-sound-taste/
I am indeed. Thanks for the link. I will check it out, as Bali is still on my ever-growing bucket list. 🙂
Happy birthday Jolandi. What a wonderful way to spend it. That menu looks very interesting. I was a bit surprised at the vegetarian comment as I would have assumed that many Indian dishes would have worked their way into the tastes of other South Africans over the years, giving a wider variety?
Thank you, Gwen. Traditional South African food is not at all spicy, so Indian food does not appeal to everyone. The cities offer enormous variety where it comes to catering for vegetarians (of whom there are many in South Africa), but small towns are essentially farming communities, which rely heavily on a diet dominated by the consumption of meat, which is reflected on menus.
Often the only vegetarian item on a menu would be a boring salad or, if you’re lucky, a pasta dish. Not something made with quinoa or other imaginative ingredients, but a couple of lettuce leaves, tomatoes, cucumber, and if you are lucky olives and feta. Not exactly what I would consider a meal to get excited about. Or one that is filling, for that matter! So when one finds a menu catering for vegetarians in a small town, it is something to celebrate.
I don’t like eating food in restaurants that I can prepare at home, and which is often even tastier at a fraction of the price. So I am difficult to please on top of being a vegetarian. 😉
I am the same. I refuse to choose Atlantic Salmon in a restaurant, because we eat so much of it at home, and it is best served simply, which I can manage. And I don’t like Barramundi – assuming what I have tried in the past is the genuine fish. Those two are the most common fish on an Australian restaurant menu. So it’s often difficult for me to choose a protein that may be considerate of my ever-blossoming weight. Popular as it is, I am wary of quinoa as I suspect it bloats me. A Greek Salad on its own hardly meets the emotional expectation I have built up for a meal out. So, much to my husband’s frustration, I can take a long time to decide on a restaurant menu, and I usually end up making an unwise choice in terms of calories.
I bought some fresh figs today, and experimented with baking them with a little Fetta stuck inside a slash in their tops, drizzled with honey. I chose Fetta because I had some left over from stuffing dates yesterday for finger food. The dates worked (I mashed the fetta and stuck half a pecan on top as decoration). The figs not so. I needed a much softer and tastier cheese such as Gorgonzola. But it’s all grist for the mill. One time I hosted a lunch where some were gluten free and others vegetarian. I made a mean baked-vegetable lasagna, among other things. And fennel in cheese sauce adds an extra dimension to any stuffed vegetable such as zucchini. But you are probably the expert on those dishes!
Sounds like you are an extremely creative cook, Gwen. I would definitely not decline an invite to your house for a meal. The date/feta/nut combination sounds delicious. I’m not so keen on dates, but stuffed dates is a different story. My absolute favourite sweetner is date syrup. Fresh figs baked with a drizzle of date syrup served with thick creamy Greek yoghurt is one of my favourite ways of tarting up some boring muesli for breakfast.
I’m glad to hear I am not the only one with high standards regarding restaurant meals. 🙂
I have my domestic goddess moments, but few and far between these days. You probably have a surfeit of dates in UAE, but the ones I prefer are medjool, fresh, of course. I intended to stuff with marscapone, but it was out of stock. The deli owner recommended Danish Fetta, and it worked well. A slight salty tang gave it extra zing.
I’ll have to try the date syrup idea.
Yes, we are spoiled for choice – such a pity it is wasted on me, Gwen. But I definitely make up for it with my consumption of date syrup. 😉
You’ve adopted a wonderful philosophy to life, and returning to your country of birth in celebration of the 50th seems quite apt. It sounds like you enjoyed your time there thoroughly, living a slow life, soaking to all in.
The menu at Mez Karoo seems very eclectic. A bit of a journey around the world via the taste buds.
Don’t you just love journeys around the world via the taste buds? I definitely do. And I always rejoice in finding excellent restaurants in the most unexpected places. Small towns in South Africa aren’t exactly known for imaginative or the inclusion of vegetarian food, so when one finds both, it is a blessing. It was the perfect meal for a landmark birthday. 🙂
Looks like such a lovely place to just sit back and relax. I always think our next trip will be a relaxing one and we end up exhausting ourselves. All the best for your Portugal project, Jolandi! Fingers crossed for your dream to come true!
Thank you, Cheryl. There are still a couple of hurdles to overcome, but we will persist. 🙂
I often marvel at the amount of things you and Basil fit into your trips, and I guess exhaustion is a fair price to pay for all the amazing places you get to see. I think it is important to travel in a way that resonates with one’s soul or outlook on life – or whatever it is that makes one happy. Imagine the satisfaction you’ll get one day when you are old, reliving all your travels by going through your blog posts!
We have a similar dream. I’m definitely rooting for you!
I wish Basil could get more leave. We envy travellers (especially our friends) who spend a month in Bali and live like locals. I’m trying to slow down the pace and our Korean trips give us an opportunity to try slow-travel. 🙂
Well, practice makes perfect. 😉 Enjoy your slow travels through Korea. You are see and get to experience so many amazing places along the way. And I love that you share them.
Thank you for rooting for us. Keep dreaming – when the time is right, I am sure you will be able to fulfil your dream. It is often these dreams that help us cope when life is challenging.
Happy birthday! What a great way to celebrate your 50th. It looks like a wonderful spot.
Thank you, Caroline. It was the perfect spot.
That seems like a great way to spend birthdays. It looks like you found a really nice place this go around.
I hope I will always have enough money to continue with this tradition, Dave. 🙂
Happy Birthday Jolandi. My daughter’s young man is a vegetarian and he delights in sharing his spots with my daughter. She’s decided to now lot eat meat and I myself, am not do keen on meat now. 🙈 Age I think and wisdom.
I agree that some restaurants do not offer much so a good find is a treasured experience
Thank you for sharing and may you always always have money and freedom to travel. 🤗
Thank you for your lovely wish, Kavitha.
I find it so interesting how we often don’t give what we eat much thought, but when we do, how it can change our relationship with food completely. Like you say, perhaps age and wisdom has something to do with it. 🙂 What I can remember most when I stopped eating meat (about 11 years ago) was how my body felt so much better. In many ways ‘lighter’. Not to mention the delight I had in discovering ingredients and flavour combinations I hardly knew existed.
Hello Jolandi,
I wish you a happy birthday too! I am very happy you could celebrate your special day in such a special way. Wishing you (and your husband) a wonderful year ahead, full of health, love and happiness 🙂
Ah, thank you, Takami.
What a nice tradition! Well done Jolandi and happy birthday.
I’ve to say, my dream home should we win the lottery and give up on this waking-up-and-commuting-to-work business looks a bit like Mez Karoo Kitchen. And those splendid little glasses (second photo, the small one) are exactly like those I used to have in the dinner hall at elementary school. Ah, memories!
Fabrizio
Thank you, Fabrizio. Oh my goodness – I marvel at how you’ve spotted a glass that looks like the ones you’ve used at elementary school! May this year be the year for you to win the lottery then, and forever free yourself from the enslavement of having to earn a living . . . 😉
🙂 one can only hope!
Happy Birthday! It really looks lovely, lots of attention to detail, and who doesn’t love a chalkboard menu?
Thanks, Lani. Exactly! Chalkboard menu’s are my favourite – it says so much about the creativity of the chef and the freshness of the produce. I always feel a bit suspicious of places that have menus that are as thick as books. 🙂
Yes! I loathe large menus, they take so long to look through it and give you WAY too many choices.
Just divine. What a wonderful birthday. I’ve just seen at Lexie’s that you are awaiting results. Good luck. ❤
Thanks, Manja. We are. A bit nerve-wracking. I hope you are staying both safe and sane. I saw somewhere that the Italian government was expecting cases to peak this week. I hope it is true so that the situation can improve. Thinking of you.
I think it’s improving already, at least in the north. I think of you too. Be well!
That will be such good news if those case numbers and death can stop dropping. It is frightening to see the statistics. Both my husband and I just found out that our tests came back negative. Very grateful for that. Look after yourself.
Oooo, great news! Let’s celebrate! 🙂 Cin cin!
Cheers!
I (belatedly) enjoyed celebrating your birthday with you in this special place, Jolandi. I think it’s wonderful that you treat yourself to a special experience on your special day.
Thank you, Tanja. I hope you are keeping well.
thank you so much for this post.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Happy birthday! Hope you had a wonderful day!
It was a lovely day, thank you, Leif.