Qasr al Hosn – The Symbolic Heart of Abu Dhabi
“To those who would know
We are the Bani Yas.
This is our island,
Where we are born and raised.
We are a people of noble origins,
We inherited it from the ancestors.
Our forefathers guarded it with their lives,
Protecting it with sword and spear.
O valiant brothers, you are a proud and strong people,
The nation loves those who serve it faithfully.”
– Emirati poet, Saeed Mohammed bin Salem Al Muhairbi
When I had to decide where and how I wanted to spend my last morning in the UAE, I thought a final visit to its symbolic heart, Qasr al Hosn, would be the most appropriate. It was here, as one story in the rich local oral tradition tells, where a group of hunters, following a gazelle, discovered fresh water. A small, round watchtower was built to guard over the precious water source. Carbon dating of the coral stone used in the tower points to a date of extraction somewhere between 1795 and 1805.
When Sheikh Shakhbut bin Dhiyab moved his permanent residence here from Liwa, he built a small fortified house around the original watchtower. As a result, a budding settlement sprung up, and so the story of, not only Qasr al Hosn, but the city of Abu Dhabi began.
In the 1850s, Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon carried out improvements and turned the fort into a two-storied structure, but it was Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan, ruling from 1928-1966, who enclosed the initial fort completely, giving Qasr al Hosn its present-day form.
From its earliest existence Qasr al Hosn not only dominated the flat, sandy landscape of Abu Dhabi island, but became one of the most recognisable landmarks on the then Trucial Coast. Built from coral stones and cladded in a local plaster, called juss, made from a mixture of ground coral, seashells, and sand that was burnt, crushed and mixed into a paste, it sparkled in the desert sun, greeting everyone who approached the city from both land and sea.
Until 1966 it, not only served as a royal residence, but was also the political and military headquarters for the ruling sheikhs who have left an indelible mark on the economic, social and cultural life of the country and its people. Now, overshadowed by taller glass, steel and concrete structures, it may no longer dominate the physical landscape, but it is still intricately linked to the emotional landscape of the Emirati soul.
Meticulous excavation and restoration of the fort by archaeologists from the Abu Dhabi Tourism and Cultural Authority was carried out for around 10 years to remove the concrete and paint in which it was covered during its 1976-1983 renovations. The restored building officially opened its doors again for visitors in December 2018.
Notes:
Visit Qasr al Hosn’s official website by clicking here.
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I will miss your posts about the UAE: it’s a beautiful place, and I’m grateful to your blog for introducing me to it. Wishing you safe journeys not only to Portugal but through all.of your life changes as well. Bon Voyage!
Thank you for the good wishes. I’m so glad I could introduce you to the beauty of the UAE, Hangaku. I suspect that I will write about it for a while longer.
A perfect choice for a departing visit.
Thanks, Peggy, I thought so too. I love symbols and rituals.
What a beautiful and peaceful spot to spend your last morning. I would imagine it was a bit bittersweet. I have loved your posts from the UAE, and your photos captured the beautfy. Wishing you well and look forward to following you in Portugal.
Thank you, Terri. I suspect I will be writing about the UAE for a quite a bit longer. It is a place that will always be a part of who I am. Leaving was harder than I thought it would be, especially now, as I cannot just hop on a plane for a quick visit, and knowing that made it feel so final. On the other hand, I am very happy to finally be in Portugal. I feel at peace when I’m on the land.
What a nice way to spend your last day. I know very little about Abu Dhabi so it was interesting reading the history of the city and how it all started with discovering a fresh water source. I suppose that’s the key settlement criterion for most places, but especially important in that extreme, dry environment. Your photos are captivating. I love the sharp contrast of deep blue sky with the white watchtower. What a marvellous experience to live for a time in the UAE…I’m a tad envious.
Thank you, Caroline. I’ve always loved that sharp contrast too. The UAE has been good to Michael and I, and I will miss it. The culture, history, and archaeology of the country are fascinating, and I suspect I will keep writing about it, just in other forms and formats.
All the best 😊
Thank you Trees!
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It’s very refreshing to see an old building like this in a landscape that is now almost always associated with gleaming tall skyscrapers and sleek modern structures. It’s very encouraging to see more and more cities across the globe preserving their cultural heritage because it’s what makes each place unique. By the way, congratulations on successfully completing your move to Portugal! I just subscribed to your other blog to make sure I won’t miss any updates.
I find the contrast between old and modern always striking, Bama, and like you’ve written in a post about Hong Kong, I do think the past and the present should exist in harmony as they enhance one another in so many ways. In Dec/Jan each year (doubt it will be this year) there is a Heritage Festival that takes place at Qasr al Hosn, and I always marvel at the fact that it is mostly Emirates who come to celebrate their culture, instead of it being a show for tourists.
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Hello Jolandi,
I agree, what a wonderful way to spend your last morning in the place that was home for so many years. I’m embarrassed to admit that I was unaware of this amazing landmark that is rich in history. I too, really appreciate getting a glimpse of this area of the world through your lovely writing and photography.
Of course I will continue to follow your adventures via “A Taste of Freedom.” (I have of course received an alert for your latest post. I am catching up on blogs and look forward to reading it soon!) In the meantime all our best to you and yours and please do continue to take care! ❤
I’m always very grateful for your support, Takami. And also completely understand how catching up on blog posts can feel like a fulltime job. Take care of yourself. XX
What an amazing fortress and so interesting with high rise skyline behind..
I love the contrast between the past and the present, Lisa. The city really now dwarfs the past. Literally.
What a beautiful fortress! I am so pleased they were able to remove the concrete and paint and bring it back to its former glory. It is absolutely dwarfed by the surrounding buildings!
It is, Clare. I love how it is a constant reminder of the origin of the city.
A lovely choice for your last day. I’m just delighted that you were so intentional with your last day: you made an event of it, and since I was trained as an anthropologist I see that as an important ritual to help you transition. I wonder if I’ve ever been so conscious about leaving a place and saying goodbye. I DO remember making an effort to look at a town in my rear view mirror because I was leaving for good and never wanted to go there again in my life! ha ha.
Anyway, the legend and the history are wonderful and I am pleased that such a beautiful job of restoration has been done at this tower. Is a spring preserved there today? Your photos are excellent, and really helped me to get a sense of what it would be like to visit.
I find it very interesting that you were trained as an anthropologist, Crystal. What an interesting lens to view the world through!
Yes, I like being very intentional when there is any kind of transition. The very first time I did that was to sprinkle glitter into the open grave of a flamboyant friend who passed away when he was just 21. It felt appropriate to mark my loss with an intentional gesture that also honoured the kind of person he was. Perhaps the yearning for ritual is inate and helps us to create meaning, especially when faced with transition, which is never easy. When I moved from South Africa to the UAE 9 years ago, I marked the transition by going on a 12 day hike in the mountains, which was the perfect choice in retrospect.
I also find as I grow older, and with my training as a yoga teacher, I’ve learned to pay attention to life in a different way to when I was young, and perhaps to also be a bit more appreciative to the lessons and gifts of life.
Abu Dhabi never had an abundance of fresh water. I’m not sure that there was ever a real spring, as shallow wells were the most common way of extracting water on the coast. Today all the water is provided through desalination.
Jolandi you are so wise to have come up with your rituals, like the glitter and the hike. I have to agree with your guesses that ritual is innate, just based on so many examples from so many unconnected groups of humans, almost as far back as we’ve got records of humans. It’s too bad there is no spring at the site, because it would feel good to me if I visited, to have that physical link to the past. I thought this when visiting a miracle in the modern city of Petra, Jordan. My driver knew I was atheist, and asked if I knew the story of when Moses was lost in the desert, and struck a rock, and water poured forth, so his people could drink. Yes, I knew the story. “That happened here!” he said, and parked on the street in front of a small, unremarkable building. We walked inside and a roof had been built over the top of a large rock and a spring bubbling forth. I was delighted, and climbed right down to it and scooped it up and drank the water. You and I are both compelled to connect, it seems. Ah, desalination makes more sense for UAE.
I love your story of your experience in Petra, Crystal. A physical link to the past is special. And yes, I think a deep connection to the people and places we visit is what feed our souls and is perhaps even what compels us to travel, be it near or far from home.
The photos and stories you have collected form Abu Dhabi and around the region is something special, what an experience. What strikes me about Qasr al Hosn is this crisp, clean feel of the desert, and what a different experience you are now embarking on in comparison 🙂 Wonderful post, and look forward to your taste of freedom in Portugal.
I am eternally grateful for all the stories and experiences the UAE have given me, Randal. It was such a privilege to call it home for almost a decade. I suspect that I will be writing stories about it for a long time to come in various different forms. It has truly become a part of who I am
My family lived near this Hosn in the early 1970s. There were no tall building at that time at all in AbuDhabi and,as you mentioned, Qasr AlHosn was a landmark. I love how you described how it was built in your most wonderful and intricate details and beautiful words. You brought so many wonderful memories of this magical place that I have left decades ago. Thank you for your wonderful post and great blog. Thank you for the likes on my posts as well.
I love that you lived near Qasr Al Hosn in the 70. What a different time and place it was then. I wish I could time travel back to it for a week or two! I’m glad I could bring back some memories for you. And thank you for your kind words.