In Search of Al-Andalus: Córdoba
“Life, if you know how to use it, is long enough.”
– Seneca –
Layers and layers of history have rendered Córdoba’s streets crooked, narrow, and full of intrigue and mystery. According to the 17th century Muslim chronicler al-Maqqari, Córdoba, in the 10th century, had 600 hammam, 3000 mosques, 1600 inns, 50 hospitals, 25 schools, and 4000 shops. Hailed as a place where Muslims, Jews and Christians lived and toiled together in peace and harmony, Córdoba was for a brief period of time the most refined and tolerant city in all of Europe. Some historians argue that statements like these are exaggerated and not quite true, but what is true, is that Cordoba attracted poets, philosophers, doctors and scientists to her bosom. Many of whom were far ahead of their time. During her heyday, 60 000 books were published annually, and were distributed throughout the Islamic world.
The many learned men born here included the Muslim scholar and poet Ibn Hazm (994 – 1064), who wrote important works on theology, philosophy and jurisprudence, as well as the jurist, doctor, and philosopher Averroes (1126 – 1198). Like his contemporary Maimonides, he was driven from his home town by the fanatical Almohads, Berber fundamentalists, who came from North Africa and hated books.
Mosche Ben Maimon or Maimonides (1135 – 1204) wrote on biblical and talmudic matters, mathematics, astronomy and medicine. His literary works were translated from Hebrew into Arabic and circulated within both the mosques and synagogues of Andalusia. It is said that if you grasp the slippered feet of his statue, and draw your hands towards you, you will experience a transfer of ancient wisdom.
Seneca (4 BC – 65 AD), Rome’s leading philosopher in the mid 1st century, was born in Córdoba, and even Cervantes, most famous for creating the memorable Spanish character Don Quijote, lived in Córdoba as a child.
1. The Mezquita
This 10th century mosque still stands regal and proud despite it being converted into a cathedral in the 16th century.
2. The Alcazar
Although the walls are imbued with history, it is the gardens that I loved the best. It is a good place to linger with a book, or to simply watch the antics of the many visitors who rushes through the space.
3. The Roman Bridge
The bridge over the Guadalquivir is the most dramatic legacy left over from the important Roman city that once stood here.
4. Palacio de Viana
Muslim home life centred around the inner patio with its fountain, climbing flowers, and sometimes even a citrus tree, and although there are many wonderful examples of these patios one can visit, the Palacio de Viana should not be missed.
5. Simply walk
The Jewish Quarter with its narrow lanes is often awash in a sea of humanity following a tour leader, but Córdoba has many narrow streets, spilling into squares, that are quiet and empty. Where the footsteps of the tourists fade, and the locals trample on daily errands, buildings often have peeling paint, and weather vanes are whimsical.
To Eat or Drink:
1. La Flamenka has good food, including enough choice for vegetarians, and friendly service. It is by far my favourite restaurant in Córdoba.
2. Mercado Victoria is a great place for a glass of wine and some people watching. There is also a stall selling excellent salmorejo (a cold tomato soup thickened with bread), a speciality of the area.
To Read:
- Maimonides’ Guide for the Perplexed
- Ibn Hazm’s The Ring of the Dove
- Averroes’ On the Harmony of Religion and Philosophy
- Letters From a Stoic by Seneca
- Guide to Spain for History Travellers by Bob Fowke
- Seville, Córdoba, and Granada by Elizabeth Nash
Good to Know:
Both the Mezquita and the Alcazar are free to visit if you enter between 8h30 and 9h30.
Visited: September 2016
Great pictures!
Thanks for sharing.
Kind regards,
Thanks, Rob.
Wow, it all looks so beautiful. I’ve been watching a four part series on the history of Islam and they had a segment of Cordoba. Just stunning.
I find that part of Spanish history fascinating. Cordoba is a gem.
I’m grateful to have
had this beautifully
expressed visit 🙂
So glad you enjoyed it. It is definitely worth a longer visit. 😉
Beautiful pictures! I was there on a Wednesday last October. We went for a day from Seville and the Alcazar was closed. So sad I missed out on the beautiful palace.
Ah, what a pity, Sarah. I visited twice because I loved those gardens so much.
Gorgeous!
It is a wonderful place to visit, Cindy.
Gosh, it’s been decades since I was in Cordoba! What a nice little return visit I got here; your photos are great, and the history review was helpful. The part of Spain with all the Moorish influences is probably my favorite part, the architecture in particular.
I think it may well be my favourite part too. It was my first time in that part of Spain, and I will not hesitate to return.
Gorgeous photos. We visited four years ago and you’ve rekindled some wonderful memories.
Thanks, Peggy. I loved the sleepiness of Cordoba. My feet explored most of those nooks and crannies.
Beautiful photographs! I love Spain and Salmorejo! Your post brought back great memories from our trip to Spain a few years ago. 🙂
I am not a fan of cold soup at all, but Salmorejo was such a wonderful surprise. It is delicious.
Same here! I prefer it to Gazpacho!
Yip, Gazpacho never managed to charm my taste buds.
Fabulous post….sure looks like a great place to spend some time….thanks for sharing 😃
It certainly is. Most people spend perhaps a day there, but it is worth lingering a bit and enjoy the slow pace of life.
That door and ceiling decoration inside the Mezquita is unbelievable! Love how you captured the quiet little streets of Cordoba. In lieu of visiting at some point, will be picking up a few of your reading recommendations. Thank you.
Thank you, so much. It is very difficult to capture the inside of the Mezquita. I hope you make it to Cordoba in the not so distant future. It is a lovely place to visit.
Despite all my travels I have never been to Spain or Portugal and this post really opened my eyes to the delights and history of Cordoba. Fabulous photos, – your trademark! But I also liked being reminded of the Islamic history in this part of the world. Also, I have an English ancestor (g.g.grandfather) whose occupation was cordwainer. I understand it denotes a boot and shoe maker whose speciality was using the leather from Cordoba.
What interesting ancestors you have, Gwen! I think Spain’s Islamic history is fascinating. Another interesting snippet I’ve learned recently is that the Spanish greeting “Hola” comes from the Arabic word “Allah”.
Just saw this 🙂 Isn’t that Allah / Hola story fascinating? I’ll be sure to remember that!
Amazing pictures of a beautiful city. It reminds me of my trip there. I have not yet written about it -well I did only for Seville. Hope you enjoy my post too. Greetings from Argentina!
Your Seville post is just lovely, Roberto. Wish I had time to visit there too, but that is why I love reading blogs. That way I get to travel to more places than money and time allow. Hope you write about your visit to Cordoba one day.
Thanks for your nice words. Andalusia is beautiful. Hope you can see it by yourself some day too.
Such an amazing place! I love Spain, and you have captured beautiful moments and places! Enjoy!
Thank you, Athina. I think Spain is a pretty amazing place too!
Another wonderful post from you Jolandi! The photographs are gorgeous as always.
Ah, thank you, Clare.
I’ve been here. Nice photos
The architecture is just fabulous ! thanks for sharing these with you. I love exploring that part of the world with you !
🙂
Swung back around to enjoy these Spain posts again. Great stuff. I’m curious though about your impressions of these places through your particular lens of having spent so much time in the Middle East. Thoughts?
I, interestingly and specifically singled out Granada and Cordoba to visit as part of my trip to Spain, because of my life here in the Middle East. History books tell us so many conflicting stories, as they really only reflect a specific point of view that is never neutral. And so I take whatever I read about the past or the present, for that matter, with a pinch of salt. From living UAE I know for a fact that Muslims are often incorrectly portrayed, and, as a result, am not always sure about the amount of ‘truth’ writings about the past hold. Yet, when I am surrounded by the beauty of the buildings that were built by the Moors, I allow my heart to respond. I felt awed and humbled standing amidst such beauty. Money, vision, faith, and artistic skill created an enduring legacy of what is possible. What I have learned most of all is that we tend to focus on differences, instead of similarities, and allowing minorities to shape our view of majorities. A pity really.
I hope to visit Cordoba one of these days, but even more, I hope that we will learn to live together (again) in peace and harmony.
Wouldn’t that be nice, Tanja? It is a city I’m sure you will love visiting. It is quaint and compact. Best seen and experienced one foot.
…which is my favorite way to experience a new place…